Day 12 – Finisterre to Muxia

Today was the toughest day so far. The last one of my pilgrimage, it took me 31 kilometres, from Finisterre to Muxia, under a scorching sun. Traveling under a clear blue sky this time of the year is harder than doing it in the rain apparently. Yesterday’s sunburn manifested through intense shoulder pain and I had difficulty carrying my backpack. The heat was so strong that I was sure that when I would take my shoes of, my toes would be cooked inside them. I actually needed to rest a couple of times in the shade of a friendly tree, which so far I have stoically avoided. The sights were beautiful however, as seeing the ocean through the needles of pine trees was something I haven’t had the chance to do until now.

I am now in the town of Muxia, a place which, to my eyes at least, seems to be crumbling under the merciless sun. Named after the monks which brought the Christian religion to these areas, in medieval times (Terra Monxia), it now consists of a few houses, a church, a lighthouse, a few people and about a million lizards, sunbathing while admiring the way the ocean’s waves violently break on the cliffs of the Costa da Morte, literally the Coast of Death. It was named like this not due to the large numbers of foolish pilgrims jumping to their deaths rather than carry that hellish backpack for one more second, but for the many ships which find their end of these cliffs.

So here I am. At the end of my journey. After more than 230 kilometers travelled, more than 10 Spanish towns visited, I find myself in another albergue, drinking a glass of rose this time, and pondering upon my travels so far, about where they’re going to take me from now on, this summer at least, and about the fact that tomorrow will be the first time I step into an automobile since I came out of the bus which brought me to Sarria. I’m too tired to properly discuss my pilgrimage now so I’ll leave that for the next couple of days. Furthermore, I think I may be suffering from mild sunstroke. The fact that I am shivering and my skin is burning at the same time were useful hints.


One for me and one for you.

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